Race Face Evolve XC Crankset

Race Face Evolve XC Crankset 

DESCRIPTION

From the forged in logos and post finish machining on the crank arms and chainrings to the high end features usually reserved for cranks twice the price, The Evolve XC finally brings some drool factor to the budget oriented, performance crankset market.

USER REVIEWS

Showing 1-10 of 74  
[Dec 04, 2012]
Sam
Weekend Warrior

Strength:

Looks seriously good! Nice CNC finish on mine with the silver cranks. Pretty lightweight, but seem beefy enough.

Weakness:

As everyone else says - the spline design is just really bad and causes all sorts of problems.

My cranks were 2nd hand so I can't really judge fairly, but the previous owner had (as far as I can understand it) started torquing the bolt when the cranks were not engaged squarely with the spline? Something like that - anyway, there seems to be a problem with the interface and some gouging on the chainset splines. I can get it on a bit but then have to really torgue the bolt to get them further on until it becomes too hard to go any further and they have still not bottomed out - about 3mm left visible on the axle splines. I may try the spacer idea someone else mentioned and have the cranks further apart than they are supposed to be.

Can't recomend them though from the spline problems. Saying that, I picked them up for £30!

Similar Products Used:

Race Face Atlas AM,

OVERALL
RATING
3
VALUE
RATING
3
[May 07, 2012]
jim christensen

Strength:

appears to be well built, chainrings are easy to find

Weakness:

bad design, axle splines too long

I bought a used older Evolve XC set at a bike swap, knowing I was taking a risk, they were $50 including an Ultregra BB (I had to order the not-included drive side bolt/remover off ebay). Once installed on my old titanium mtn bike, there was a lot of drive side wobble. I think the guy I bought them from thought they were junk. I read Morewoods review; my tightening bold had also bottomed out on the axle, not the crank. I got out my small bench grinder and took off about 2mm from the end of the axle/splines, it tightened up great, no wobble and now it's very solid. I also noticed that I had about 4mm of space from the bb (68mm bb shell) to the cranks, which would allow the crankset to 'float' side to side about 4mm. The local hardware store has 2 packs of 24mm x 3mm O-rings, one O-ring on each side between the crank and the bb bearing looks just-right. We'll see how the crankset holds up, but I expect them to be fine.
I mostly ride tight xc trails, decent former Expert racer, pretty competent mechanic (the free mechanic for several of my friends, buy/sell bikes for fun), I've had 6 or 8 good bikes personally, and don't tend to break a lot of stuff.

OVERALL
RATING
3
VALUE
RATING
3
[Feb 05, 2012]
Morewood Shovanist
Cross Country Rider

Strength:

Chainrings shifted nicely - didn't last very long though

Weakness:

It appears many but maybe not all have a factory fault.
Cleary the large number of people getting "loose drive side crankarm" indicates a factory fault . As normal for the greedy corporations , Race Face has come to the conclusion it can sweep the issue under the carpet becuase there is not enough people affected to bring their name into dis-repute. We hope Race Face goes bankrupt. But I have a solution - read on!! :)

If your Cranks are loose or chucked into the back of the cupboard ..... get them out again!!

The drive side crank arm comes loose - It is not due to the washer as another guy mentioned , it is not due to an under tight/under-torqued crank bolt .

After much fiddling , I found the problem : Either the casting on the crank arm splines is too narrow or the spindle splines are too long . Either way the crank bolt bottoms out onto the end of the spindle and the crank arm therefore has very no pressure applied on to it from the crank bolt . The crank bolt should be bottoming out onto the crank arm , forcing it all the way onto the ends of the splines of the spindle where it will seat and lock tightly.

The solution was to carefully freehand grind a millimeter or 2 off the end of the spindle splines using an angle grinder . Be very careful and use safety gear!!
Now when I tighten the crank bolt till it bottoms onto the crank arm , all the pressure is doing what it should be doing - forcing the crank arm splines up the spindle splines until they seat 100% and have constant pressure applied. You may need to remove one washer off the spindle behind the crank arm to compensate for the crank arm now seating properly and fractionally further up the splines.

To check your crank : tighten the crank bolt , remove the crank arm bolt cap and then remove the crank bolt without pulling off the crank arm - there should be a tiny gap between the end of the spindle and the crank arm splines. If there is no gap and they are flush then the spindle is too long and needs to be ground shorter. Grinding it in a lathe would be the ideal option but my careful freehand grinding with an angle grinder worked perfectly.

My drive side crank arm had a huge amount of play , was ready to get thrown away - its now tight and 100% rigid. Time to go blast it down the trail again :)

Similar Products Used:

Xt

OVERALL
RATING
1
VALUE
RATING
1
[Jul 09, 2011]
mtnbici
Cross Country Rider

Strength:

An inexpensive crankset that can handle the abuse of a 240 pound rider.

Weakness:

The bottom bracket is junk, it really ruins the crankset. The right side sealed bearings started making a clicking noise into my second year of use (less than 400 miles). It turns out the left side bearings were bone-dry. I removed the seals, cleaned the bearings, and applied grease. The jury is still out if this will keep the BB working. The BB was exposed to very little water.

Good set for the money, just keep an eye on the BB. Because of the BB bearing issues (google it, it's widespread) I can't give this product a higher rating.

Similar Products Used:

None

OVERALL
RATING
2
VALUE
RATING
4
[Dec 18, 2010]
EwanMcKinnon
Weekend Warrior

Strength:

Cheap & Light

Weakness:

crank arm spline design

My wife and I have almost the same set-up. My drive crank developed a "wobble" after 30 months of riding (perhaps 80-90 rides). My wife's is going strong.

My big ring and pedals have taken a few hits on rocks but total weight of bike and rider is only 75-80kg so I'm not too impressed. That said, they are sold as "XC" and, perhaps RaceFace don't think XC riders should be hitting rocks.

Still looking for a replacement but it certainly won't be the Evolve XC cranks

Similar Products Used:

n/a

OVERALL
RATING
2
VALUE
RATING
3
[Mar 28, 2010]
Tim Barrett Jr
Cross Country Rider

Strength:

Stiff, cool looking, cheap, shifts well

Weakness:

None yet

Great cranks so far. Not one bad shift. I don't know what everyone else is complaining about, not yet anyway. Guys, adjust your chains or something. There hasn't even been a sputter from these cranks yet. Also, go with isis. Get rid of the external bb. Bad invention.

Similar Products Used:

Race Face Turbine, Shimano Lx

OVERALL
RATING
5
VALUE
RATING
5
[Dec 18, 2009]
stosh87
Cross Country Rider

Strength:

Forged Cranks hold up well.

Weakness:

Bottom bracket is the biggest piece of crap.
I'm serious the bb was a SRX it lasted about 100 miles.
Seizes up and sent back to Raceface. So like a dummy I upgraded to a XC Signature. The signature got wet in Sedona
and was binding up. Took it apart cleaned it and installed.
The Xc about 90 miles later started binding again. Called
Raceface they said I could send it in for forty dollars.
Sold the the Cranks, could not stand the headache they were giving me.
Don't buy these save yourself a headache.

Bottom line don't waste your money like I did.
Can't see to put money into something thats going to break
every 100 miles.

Similar Products Used:

Shimano, Bontrager

OVERALL
RATING
1
VALUE
RATING
1
[Dec 07, 2009]
SambaBob
Cross Country Rider

Strength:

Light and shifts clean.

Weakness:

Chain rings bend easy. Drive side began to seriously wobble at @ one year.

I was loving this crankset until last week, when I noticed how loose it was. Tightened it up but it had major wobble half way through the next ride. I know that the crank bolt was bottomed out, so no problem with that. Looks like the plastic race is broken, too. Will try to get a new one of those, clean the junk out of the splines, and maybe add a hardware store washers like that one fellow recommended. In the mean time, add mine to the wobbly tales of woe that litter this thread like plastic on the beach in Mexico...

Similar Products Used:

Ritchey Logic

OVERALL
RATING
2
VALUE
RATING
3
[Nov 19, 2009]
yfdcap
Cross Country Rider

Strength:

Great crank for the money.

Weakness:

None with cranks. Bottom bracket not the best.

Most if not all spline problems are from not enuff torque. Part of this is Raceface's fault. You have to tighten until they are fully seated and the bolt bottoms. Not a actual torque spec number. I have beat on these cranks trying to hurt them and have had no issues. I go 210 LB ready to ride.
Bottom bracket is not great. I have went through a couple. Also go through Shimano's just as easy. These can be taken apart. If Phil Wood grease is used they last well.

Similar Products Used:

Truvativ, XT's, FSA and so on....

OVERALL
RATING
4
VALUE
RATING
5
[Sep 07, 2009]
tpparker
Cross Country Rider

Strength:

The machining of the arms is pretty sharp. It's decently stiff. (It came OEM.)

Weakness:

The splines on the drive-side arm were finished after only a season or so.

I was really irritated by this crankset, not simply on account of its premature failure; but, more on account of the symptom at first appeared to be that the drive-side bolts wouldn't stay torqued, always loosening after a ride or two. So, after ordering a new set of bolts I finally realized the splines had warped, thereby allowing play and causing the bolts to loosen. I already knew better than to ride anything but Shimano in regard to crankset, and this has just strengthened that belief.

Similar Products Used:

Truvativ, Shimano

OVERALL
RATING
1
VALUE
RATING
2
Showing 1-10 of 74  

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