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Submitted by
terry
a
from winnipegDate Reviewed: August 18, 2004
Strengths: canadian made strong alloy axle nice fixin bolts!Weaknesses: priceBottom Line: the only sucky thing was choice of freewheel now you can get a white industry's 32 point engagement with 4 pauwls so you can get great engagement (like cris king)
Duration Product Used: More than 3 years
Similar Products Used: any cartridge bearing hub suzie , cris king etc
Bike Setup: delux singlespeed!
Overall Rating: Value Rating:
Submitted by
Keith Leavitt
a Racer
from Gunnison/CB ColoradoDate Reviewed: June 30, 2003
Strengths: Decently light, smooth, cartridge bearings, and a universal mountWeaknesses: none so farBottom Line: Ordinarily, I wouldn't write a review over something as simple as a rear hub. But here's the deal: the reason other people are having problems with them is: 1. over-tightening of the cones, or more likely, 2. running too much chain tension (the mistake of most oney riders). The bottom line is that the hubs and barings are great--slacken your chain, don't reef on the cones, and no problem will occur.
Favorite Trail: Doctor's park, taylor canyon
Duration Product Used: 3 months
Price Paid:
$155.00
Purchased At: r & r sports
Similar Products Used: paul's hubs, xtr (geared bike)
Bike Setup: Bianchi Siss, stock except king headset, ODI grips, stan's no-tubes
Overall Rating:
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Submitted by
Ziggy Stardust
a Cross Country Rider
from outer spaceDate Reviewed: June 13, 2003
Strengths: Look sorta cool?Weaknesses: Poor design leading to bearing drag/seizure/premature failureBottom Line:
I noticed after riding my new DISS a few times that the rear wheel was really dragging. After checking it out, it became apparent the wheel bearings were binding and turning very stiffly in a gritty sorta way.
So I took the wheel off, removed the bearing endcaps, rapped on the threaded axle a few times and the bearings were then free again. I put the bearing endcap back on (barely finger tight), reassembled, and then it seemed ok after that.
Either Bianchi, the LBS, or Spot had assembled the bike incorrectly and bound the bearings by torquing down the endcaps. Also it may be a design flaw with the axle for this to happen in the first place. Spot obviously has dropped the ball here and needs to fix this most obvious of problems. How did these things get all the way to the market with such an obvious problem like this?? Ridiculous.
Anyway, since this happened I've been researching it on the singlespeed forum and turns out lots of people are having the same problem (most of them don't realize it until it's too late and the bearings fail...like the guy who posted earlier here). Below is the correspondence from the Spot tech support guy on how to get your hub back in working order (although you may need new bearings before performing this maintenance).
>>>
Here's the email from Michael @ Spot...." I have to admit, Michael @ Spot has always been a top-notch guy that quickly and thoroughly replies to my emails, phone calls, etc.
Here's the email reply from Michael...
"Hey Michael,
The problem that you are having is very easily fixed. What happens is that when the hub is in your hands and you spin it, everything is great but as you tighten the bolts down on the hub, it is slightly stretching the axle and the bearings are getting side loaded from the end caps. There are 2 things that you should do depending on how much you want to do on your bike right now. I will give you the info and then you decide how much you want to do;
1. I would recommend removing the bearings and putting a good amount of grease on the axle and in the bearing seat prior to putting new bearings on. This will allow the bearings to seat themselves more effectively on the axle/bearing seat.
To remove the bearings, remove one end cap completely, put the bolt back into the axle on the side that the end cap is off (install bolt 1/2 - 3/4 of the way into the axle), and drive the axle out of the hub shell via a mallet on the head of that bolt. This will drive the axle and end cap out of the hub shell. To remove the other bearing, all you need to do is push it out of the hub shell via a drift through the internal of the hub. Hold the axle in an axle vise and you can remove that other end cap and then drive the bearing off of the axle.
2. reinstall time - liberal amounts of white lithium grease and you can install one bearing onto the axle, and one bearing into the hub shell.
You can now install axle/bearing into hub/bearing center the axle (yes, it does have a small amount of float between the bearings).
3. Install end caps and serrated washers. When installing end caps, thread them on until they contact the bearings and back them off by 1/3 of a turn. Install wheel into bike and spin. Remove wheel and give both bolt heads a good smack with the mallet and reinstall.
4. The wheel should be running very smoothly in the bike.
5. Check overall width of the axle assembly. It should be 135 +.5/-0
Does this make sense? If you don't want to replace the bearings right now, go to #3 and follow those directions and everything should be fine.
Hope that helps,
Michael G."
Duration Product Used: 3 months
Purchased At: Came on stock Bianchi DISS
Similar Products Used: XT hubs (good hubs)
Bike Setup: Stock '03 Bianchi DISS
Overall Rating: Value Rating:
Submitted by
Tom Jones
a Weekend Warrior
from VancouverDate Reviewed: December 29, 2002
Strengths: WorksWeaknesses: For the love of god! Just because Spot is one of the few to produce a SS disk hib they screw you on the price. No moving parts, Just an Axle, body and two bearings. This cost $10 to produce. Ouch. Soon other may follow and the price will go down. Until then they ca screw us for what-ever the market will bear.Bottom Line: Very expensive, but works (how could it not)
Favorite Trail: Boogiman
Duration Product Used: Tested or demo'ed only
Price Paid:
$135.00
Purchased At: Bike Shop
Similar Products Used: There are not many others.
Bike Setup: Fast
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Reviews 1 - 4 (4 Reviews Total)
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