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Ringlé Anti Chain Suck

MSRP $ 30.00
# of Reviews 22
Average Rating 2.82/5
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Submitted by Jim Mason a Cross Country Rider from Castle Rock, CO
Date Reviewed: August 10, 2001
Favorite Trail:Dakota Ridge
Duration Product Used:6 months
Price Paid: $10.00
Purchased At:www.gvtc.com/~ngear.com or 1-800-659-4607
Strengths:Light
Well-designed
Simple
Weaknesses:None
Bike Setup:Rocky Mountain Instinct
Bottom Line:Jared is right. The NGear product is way better than the Third Eye or the Ringle or Ringle immitations. It is simple and effective with true adjustability to ensure it can be positioned precisely. Massively better design, massively better materials, way more endurance. I talked to Nick at NGear for about 10 minutes and that guy REALLY understands mountain biking, the forces on a chain, and the importance of you bike working when you want/need it. Give him a call - www.gvtc.com/~ngear.com or 1-800-659-4607. My rating is for the Ringle; I'd give the NGear 5 chilis.
Value Rating:3Overall Rating:2

Submitted by Rob a Cross-Country Rider from Best (The Netherland (Europe)
Date Reviewed: June 14, 1999
Favorite Trail:
any
Duration Product Used:
2 Years
Strengths:
It works
Weights next to nothing
Easy to install
Keeps my chain from eating my bike
Weaknesses:
What weakness
Similar Products Used:
First one, great one
Bike Setup:
97' F700 team replica, DD60 Headshock
XT-V Brakes with SRAM 9.0 levers
Mavix 517, DT Comp spokes (the black ones), Mythos XC Slicks
CODA clipless pedals
Giro 'Fizik Nisene
Bottom Line:These anti chain-suck thingies work. Mine is not the Ringle one (at least not that I know of, got it for about $10) but the design is all the same anyway.
And for you guys stating 'don't get these, lube your chain instead, adjust derailers, etc. blahblahblah'. This is not the case. I just got my bike back from my dealer (5 flaming turds to those guys) and I had a chain-suck within the first mile (new chain, new chainrings, new cassette, derailers adjusted). That reminded me to re-install this sweet thingie (just wished they had a red one when I bought it, awh hell, hand me the can of spray paint Watson).5 flaming 'whatever you call them'.
Overall Rating:5

Submitted by Jared Morris a weekend warrior from Rough and Ready
Date Reviewed: August 23, 1998
Bottom Line:

Screw the Ringle! Get the N-Gear Jump Stop. I am not a rep for the company, it just kicks. not only does it stop chain suck, but it totaly eliminates derailment too. It is a simple cabon clamp with a stainless steel thingy that stops chain jump. It costs ten bucks and only weighs 30 grams. www.gvtc.com/~ngear.com or 1-800-659-4607
Overall Rating:5

Submitted by keith a racer from colorado
Date Reviewed: July 30, 1998
Bottom Line:

I have owned bicycle shops and have raced the expert class for 15 years. I've used this on several bikes including my wifes. I have found that no matter how well your bike runs that you can still chainsuck even if it is only once a year. This product is the best on the market and by far better than anything that comes OEM.
Overall Rating:5

Submitted by Nick a cross-country rider from Calgary
Date Reviewed: June 22, 1998
Bottom Line:

K... sure I haven't rode on this product b4 but after suffering major chainsuck on my Cannondale F3000 during a ride I decided to get one from Colarado Cyclist... I hear all you yitching about how much it sux and how ure better off just keeping ure chain clean. How can u keep ure chain clean if ure riding a mtn bike in the mud u morons. Come on! Sure I clean my chain b4 everyride but that doesn't help when I start going through the mud. And for keeping ure derailleru adjusted no matter how much u adjust it u'll never know how the derailleur will react when u put a lot of force on it when forcing a shift. Think b4 u write... I'll give this thing 5 chilis just to offset all the idiots ratings... Sure it ain't much but at least I'm helping. Expect an update in a month or so when I get the thing and ride it for a while.
Overall Rating:5

Submitted by Dan a cross-country rider from NJ
Date Reviewed: May 9, 1998
Bottom Line:

Transferred same one to 3 different bikes. Works fine, no problems. Essential for technical wet woods riding here, can't reliably ride without one. Lubing evry ride may stop chain suck, but I don't lube every ride and this always stops chain suck...have a nice day i hope this is 50 words ferchristsake...
Overall Rating:4

Submitted by Rob a cross-country rider from ma
Date Reviewed: March 18, 1998
Bottom Line:

Better off spending your time adjusting your chain properly. Buy a 'Lizard Skin.'
Make an ornament out of the Ringle Anti-Suck thing. Cleaning the drive train always helps, and will solve 80% of the problems, keeping your bike lubed will sove the next 10%. The next 10%, go to the LBS. Ah spring. . ..
Overall Rating:1

Submitted by BF a cross-country rider from Boise, ID
Date Reviewed: July 1, 1997
Bottom Line:

Way too expensive for what it does. I never had a problem with it slipping, but didn't care for the mud shelf effect at my bottom bracket. A better solution is to spend some quality time adjusting your front derailleur.
Overall Rating:2

Submitted by Andy a cross-country rider from Stillwater, OK
Date Reviewed: June 8, 1997
Bottom Line:

Stop chain suck? Whatever. I bought it to stop my chain from sucking and wound up breaking a tooth off of my middle chain ring. Learn how to adjust your drivetrain, its a lot cheaper and a lot less frustrating.
Overall Rating:1

Submitted by Joe Scarpelli a cross-country rider from Mountain View, CA
Date Reviewed: April 18, 1997
Bottom Line:

Skip it. As the others said, it just gets turned out of the way by the chain,
and your worse off. Instead keep your chain clean, and get a tensioner...
Overall Rating:1

Submitted by L. DUPRAT a weekend warrior from REUNION FRANCE
Date Reviewed: February 20, 1997
Bottom Line:

THIS RINGLE ANTI-CHAIN...SUCKS...each time the chain hits it ,it turns on its axle(the screw) and you either get the chain stuck in it ,or have your chainrings touching it :both ways oblige you to stop and put everything back in place ,(and your frame is scratched anyway) except the Ringle thing that pou throw away!
Overall Rating:1

Submitted by Logan Cranston a weekend warrior from New Zealand
Date Reviewed: February 15, 1997
Bottom Line:

I've had a one one my Cannondale for 3 years and have ridden in mud many times. I've never suffered chain suck once !!, Expensive but worth it.
Overall Rating:4

Submitted by Jake Ni a cross-country rider from Newton
Date Reviewed: November 28, 1996
Bottom Line:

Whateva! I got one to save my aluminum rig and it has. Aling it so the round edge of the chain link bumps into the plate and rolls the chain off. It works great. 30 green baks? Ouch, but a 600 big ones frame? Oh, @!$? !!!
Overall Rating:4

Submitted by Tim Young a racer from Columbus, O-hell-o
Date Reviewed: November 27, 1996
Bottom Line:

I installed this Ringle thang onto my C'Dale KV900. I was concerned about the steel chain eating through the aluminum frame while riding in the muddy hell known as Ohio. As mentioned before, the plates just rotate around the single bolt holding them across the chainstays after getting hit by the chain. Having the chain get caught between the frame, chainrings, crank, etc. had me flipping the bike over and prying/pulling the chain out during races (errr, not too good :-).So, in an attempt to prevent this rotation i crafted a chunk of aluminum, about 0.5 inches think, to fit into the semi-triangular region behind the BB shell where the bolt goes. I connected the aluminum chunk to the bottom Ringle plate using a roll pin so that they are solidly connected. The bolt goes through the aluminum chunk and connects, as usual, to the threaded upper Ringle piece. The theory was that the aluminum chunk, very tightly fitting into that little space and solidly connected to the bottom, chain catching plate would resist rotation. Well, it kinda works. It would still rotate if the chain hit was a good one. Sooooo... i removed the chainsuck plate. Oh well.... If the chain eats through this frame i guess that i will have to get new one... Hmmm... :-)(Special thanks to Keith in the student machine shop upstairs. :-)
Overall Rating:1

Submitted by Ken Welshons a racer from Baton Rouge, LA
Date Reviewed: October 29, 1996
Bottom Line:

This anti chain suck thing is not anti anything, it just sucks. I am a shifter. I shift way to much while climbing, and so I get chain suck a little more than I like. This thing will not stay in position if the chain hits it with any kind of force. I have even had the chain get sucked up past the chain suck thingie and get wedged. Forcing me to remove this thing mid-race and make it a part of a lovely southern nation forest. Know what works better. Just wrap a huge wad of duck tape around the chain stay in the area where the chain suck thing is suppose to stay. (but even that sucks) This thing is over priced anyway!
Overall Rating:1

Submitted by Jay Wenner a cross-country rider from St. Paul, MN
Date Reviewed: October 19, 1996
Bottom Line:

I too have the Tektro imitation product for 1/3 the Ringle price. Yes, the device will pivot out of the way after being nailed a few times by the chain. (Hey, those legs are strong.) But without the device, the frame would be taking the abuse instead. I'd much rather replace a $10 piece than a frame. Second point, I've put small pieces of butyl tube between the chain suck device and the frame and this seems to help the pivoting problem. (I used thin tape to hold the rubber on the frame, and then installed the device. Next I'm going to try using 3M spray mount adhesive on the thin strip of rubber so it's permanently attached to the frame.) Last point, if you're racing in muddy conditions, the chain will eventually suck no matter how perfect the drivetrain was when you started. In training, I never have chain suck problems (because it's fairly dry), but in the last muddy race, the device took two hits, and limited the third (and thankfully last) hit to _minor_ paint stratches. One problem with the unit is that it bends with time meaning the grip force is relaxing. The product needs to be made out of a harder metal to prevent bending.
Overall Rating:4

Submitted by Benz OuYang a cross-country rider from Berkeley, California
Date Reviewed: October 17, 1996
Bottom Line:

I can't believe that two pieces of aluminium and a bolt can cost $30! The design is sub-par because the lower plate cannot be positioned optimally with the pre-drilled holes. Furthermore, it's a trap for dirt and mud. I realized this after buying one and now I regret spending the money. Just keep your chain clean, your chainring teeth filed and your chainline adjusted and you should have no problems with chainsuck.
Overall Rating:2

Submitted by Kevin Smith a weekend warrior from Los Angeles, CA, USA
Date Reviewed: October 7, 1996
Bottom Line:

I had a chronic problem with chain suck on my last frame, which with its super-thin Easton tubing, is cause for alarm. I tried the Tektro thing, trying to save some bucks, but it would simply slide out of the way as the chain got sucked up anyway, complicating the issue.The Ringle thing works fine, doesn't slip like the cheap one. A new frame has since solved the suck problem, but on a thin-wall, flyweight alloy frame, it only takes one grinding suck to hose the whole bike. It's a must-have piece for anyone with a high end frame. Caution-- don't clamp down the bolt too much, it can buckle the chain stay! I just barely deformed the one on my bike before I saw what was happening. Hmm., maybe I was better off without it to begin with?
Overall Rating:5

Submitted by VeloBat a cross-country rider from Cambridge, MA
Date Reviewed: August 27, 1996
Bottom Line:

This thing is expensive and never worked for me. Every time my chain gritted
up and wouldn't release from the small cog and then started to wind-up (chain
suck about to happen) the Ringle Anti-suck device would just pivot out of
the way and the chain would wedge between the crankset and chainstay.


I kept tightening the single bolt on the device each time this happened,
eventually the thing snapped in two. A very poor design, the single
bolt through the center is not enough to prevent the device from pivoting
when the force of a riders legs .. magnified by the gear multiplication
of a granny gear .. is applied to it.


The only way to prevent chainsuck around here (New England)is to keep the
chain clean .. period.
Overall Rating:1

Submitted by VeloBat a cross-country rider from Cambridge, MA
Date Reviewed: August 27, 1996
Bottom Line:

This thing is expensive and never worked for me. Every time my chain gritted
up and wouldn't release from the small cog and then started to wind-up (chain
suck about to happen) the Ringle Anti-suck device would just pivot out of
the way and the chain would wedge between the crankset and chainstay.


I kept tightening the single bolt on the device each time this happened,
eventually the thing snapped in two. A very poor design, the single
bolt through the center is not enough to prevent the device from pivoting
when the force of a riders legs .. magnified by the gear multiplication
of a granny gear .. is applied to it.


The only way to prevent chainsuck around here (New England)is to keep the
chain clean .. period.
Overall Rating:1

Submitted by Jonathan Sainsbury a cross-country rider from Boston, MA
Date Reviewed: August 27, 1996
Bottom Line:

It's ok. My drivetrain is usually quite clean. IOW, I never let crud build up after a ride. I've never been sucked, except once in a race at Killington, VT. So, I don't find very valuable.
Overall Rating:3

Submitted by James Grunenberg a cross-country rider from Ohio
Date Reviewed: June 14, 1996
Bottom Line:

Mor bike toys. (My favorite parts.) The mojo is a simple straddle
cable hanger. (No longer trendy with V-Brakes). It works well, allows fixed
cable positions (with small allen screws) and comes in formerly trendy anodized
colors. If you still run Cantilevers, and not the trendy new stuff these work
fine. I still love em, and the personalazation they give to my bikes.
Overall Rating:4






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